drafting advice for princess seam blocked dress

[Sheena_Lepant]

I'm putting together a princess seam dress draft for a wedding outfit, and while the design seems straightforward, I'm second-guessing the details. The plan is a long skirt, boat neck, extended shoulders (with pads), and flare starting at the high hip. I want it smooth and simple enough for color blocking without getting fussy.

What I'm hung up on:
Ease: I'm thinking around 4" through the bodice, but will that look relaxed or just sloppy?
Flare: add the same amount to each panel, sure... but how much before it starts looking like a circle skirt?
Fabric: silk crepe matte side seems right, but I'm worried it'll show every line if it's not heavy enough. Would a medium-weight wool crepe or ponte be more forgiving?

I'm skipping waist shaping, and I don't think tucks are needed, but maybe I'm overlooking something. Anyone here done this style and found pitfalls before I waste time making a toile that won't drape right?

 

[Geezah66]

This sounds lovely! I made a similar dress for my sister's wedding with a boat neck and princess seams. We tried 4 inches of ease, but it looked too loose, so we went with 2.5 for a neater fit. For the flare, we added 2 inches to each panel below the high hip, and it gave nice movement without looking like a circle skirt. Silk crepe looked pretty but showed every bump, so we used wool crepe instead and it worked better. Are you planning to add a lining or keep it unlined?

 

[Scotchr1ckey]

Flare: add the same amount to each panel, sure... but how much before it starts looking like a circle skirt?

one advice from me is that the secret is not to think about how much to add to each panel, but to decide on a final hem circumference you're happy with.
For a long, elegant flare, something between 100-120 inches for the total hem is a good target. Just divide that number by the number of princess seams you have. Also, even if you're not doing waist shaping, consider a very slight inward curve at the high hip to keep the silhouette from looking like a straight tube

 

[Marla Sandridge]

I agree with both members above. I made a long wool crepe prom dress years ago for one of my exchange students, and I fully lined it. It turned out beautiful. Don't mess with the panels above the high hip area. Pick the amount you want the total hem to be, including all the seams, then start from the bottom up to the high hip gradually reducing each panel until you have the exact look you want. Have fun, this is the kind of challenge I love figuring out!