• You're one step from joining Sewing Forum – DIY Clothing, Pattern Making & Machine Tips.
    Create a free account to post, follow threads, and never miss an update.  Sign up free →

Sewing on Lycra without a serger

Mary

Active member
Joined
Apr 20, 2025
Messages
36
City & State/Province
SE USA
I used to make practice and competition ice skating outfits out of Lycra. I never used a serger. What I would do is create a very small zigzag stitch, and then a second, even smaller zigzag stitch. This allows the fabric to stretch as it's being used, and there are outfits that have passed down through two or three ice skaters and are still going strong.

At first I couldn't afford a serger, and when I could afford one, I didn't want the seam allowance trimmed as I sewed. Occasionally, the seam needed to be opened up to adjust something, and then resewn.
 
I've never known someone who did that type of sewing. Do you have any photos of an outfit you could share?
 
I have recently discovered Gutermann Maraflex thread, which is elastic and allows you to sew stretch fabrics using a sewing machine. Good results with it.
 
Hi Maeve59, thanks for that tip on the Marflex thread. I've never heard of that thread before, but I don't do much stretch sewing.
 
Hey Mary, that's neat to hear. Would the fabric for skating costumes be the same stuff as making bathing suits?
 
Hey Mary, that's neat to hear. Would the fabric for skating costumes be the same stuff as making bathing suits?
Hey, thought I'd chime in. The answer is yes. For the most part, the fabrics are very similar and sometimes exactly the same. Both are generally made from a type of spandex, like Lycra, which is a brand name for a type of stretchy polyurethane fiber. The key is the high spandex content, which gives the fabric that amazing four-way stretch and great recovery. A good quality swimwear fabric will likely be perfect for a skating costume.
 
You could zig zag the outer edge piece of the fabric, singularly, then sew the two pieces together with a zip zag, makes it easier to alter, if needed.
I used to do that with satin dresses, wedding and brides maid dresses.
I was taught to use the lighting bolt stitch, rather than a zig zag for a stretch stitch, not sure why :) but I learned that 40 yrs ago...
 
Oh, totally. Starting with that zig-zag on the edge really does make everything so much easier to adjust later on. I've tried the lightning bolt stitch too, and it works like a charm on stretchy fabrics
 
The two zigzag stitches give the seam enough stretch without compromising strength. Afaik, sergers can be fast but they’re not always the best fit for every project or budget. Looking forward to seeing those photos.
 
You could zig zag the outer edge piece of the fabric, singularly, then sew the two pieces together with a zip zag, makes it easier to alter, if needed.
I used to do that with satin dresses, wedding and brides maid dresses.
I was taught to use the lighting bolt stitch, rather than a zig zag for a stretch stitch, not sure why :) but I learned that 40 yrs ago...
I also serge any fabric that is subject to fraying easily after I cut the pattern out but before I begin sewing.
 
Back
Top