Why won't modern sleeves cooperate?

[gargantuan_hiccup1]

I've been sewing since the 1990s and patterns like New Look and McCall's used to fit me without a hitch. These days, I'm running into tight arm holes and strained sleeve seams, even with patterns that look similar on paper. Has anyone noticed differences in how older patterns fit compared to newer ones or tips for adjusting sleeves to play nice with a curvier back?

 

[Marla Sandridge]

Hi G,
There is a Rodale Sewing Book called Fantastic Fit for Every Body written by Gale Grigg Hazen (How to Alter Patterns to Flatter Any Figure); ISBN 0-87596792-25229. I have had this book for over 25 years and still go to it if I have a fit problem I can't figure out. I just looked it up and it is on Amazon for $7.49, which is less than I paid for mine! This is one of the best books I have in my arsenal for figuring out fit problems, and it will tell you how to manage your sleeve and back problems as well as many other fitting problems you may encounter.

 

[gargantuan_hiccup1]

Thanks for the recommendation @Marla Sandridge

A book that's been trusted for decades is definitely worth checking out. I'll grab a copy and see if it helps with these sleeve struggles. Have you used it for adjusting modern patterns or mostly older ones?

 

[Marla Sandridge]

I have used it for lots of different pattern problems. It didn't seem to matter if the patterns were my favorite oldies or a newer one. I also like Indi patterns, sometimes they are off in the hips and waist. Since I don't have much of a bottom, I have found this book quite helpful in that area as well. I am also long-waisted, so I have a few dilemmas to work on when making my own clothes.

 

[gargantuan_hiccup1]

It's great to know that the book is a real all-rounder for different patterns and fit challenges. This makes me even more eager to get my hands on it. Thanks again.

 

[hiccupsmcgee]

Yes, newer patterns often have some slimmer fits and less ease, which usually cause tight armholes and sleeve strain especially with a more curvyy back. To fix it, try easing or lowering the armhole slightly, adding more sleeve cap ease, or adjusting the back bodice for more room to improve comfort and fit.

 

[gargantuan_hiccup1]

Knowing that modern patterns are drafted with less ease gives me a clear reason for my fitting issues. I really appreciate you sharing the specific adjustments to look into.