Size 88 (3XL) Women's Trapeze Skirt Project - Phase 1: Pattern Design

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Hello everyone! I have successfully completed the fitting and finalization of the Tight Skirt pattern, tailored for a standard size 88 (3XL) female figure. Since there were no issues with my initial design and the fit was solid, I concluded the Tight Skirt project after the second fitting. Now, I am excited to begin the Trapeze Skirt project. While I previously removed some images due to my own modest sewing skills, I’ve confirmed that the pattern itself is technically sound.

The Trapeze Skirt will be designed as a basic application of the Tight Skirt foundation. To create the Trapeze silhouette, add 4cm outward from the side seam at the hemline. Then, locate a point 8cm above the Hip Line (HL) toward the Waist Line (WL) and connect that point to the new 4cm mark at the hem. This is the fundamental method for converting a Tight Skirt into a Trapeze Skirt.

Since the core of this pattern is vital, I want to emphasize these two additions:

• Add 4cm to the hemline.
• Locate the 8cm point above the HL and connect it to the 4cm hem extension.

Because this is a basic modification, the design process is quite straightforward. If you prefer a wider A-line silhouette, feel free to increase or decrease the hem extension to suit your preference. In this post, I will focus on the method of adding 4cm to the hem and connecting it from the 8cm reference point.

Please keep in mind that the dart design and distribution from the Tight Skirt must remain consistent when fitted to the model. Since this project is an evolution of the initial Tight Skirt calculation, I recommend that you first complete your own Tight Skirt—up to the fitting stage—and ensure the desired comfort and fit before moving on to this project.

I will not be sharing the specific calculation formulas for this design here. Instead, I encourage those interested to review the Tight Skirt calculations first and then adjust them to fit your own unique measurements.

I will attach reference images and videos as soon as they are ready. Thank you for your continued interest in this project!

 

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For the back panel of the Trapeze Skirt, I assigned 1.5cm to each side of the dart distribution, whereas I previously used 2cm for the Tight Skirt. My hypothesis is that "dart distribution per side" and "total dart intake" are distinct concepts. Since the distribution can be adjusted according to the scale of the overall pattern area, I applied 1.5cm as a practical application for this project.

I am testing a theory that the distribution on each side of a dart can be assigned based on standard units of 1cm, 1.5cm, or 2cm.

To explain why I distinguish between the distribution per side and the total dart intake: Darts are a method of creating three-dimensional volume, and the calculation for the waistline is based on the total dart intake. However, in actual sewing, we often see results where the stitched line deviates from the original reference line. The distance between the dart distribution points and the dart point (apex) often leads to sewing methods that do not perfectly align with the drafted lines.

I discovered this while trying to fold and sew the darts precisely; the reference lines on both sides often end up distorted against the actual stitch line. Ultimately, it seems the calculated values for the distribution and dart length do not always translate perfectly during the sewing process. Therefore, I sew based on one side as the primary reference for the distribution and stitch length.

One crucial point to note: assigning values to the dart distribution at the waistline can lead to calculation errors. The total dart intake is already a fixed value. We use that total intake to determine the width of the distribution. If you try to recalculate the total based on the distribution width, the original formula loses its meaning, leading to errors in how the distribution is modified.

The core of my argument is that the distribution should be handled in units—such as 1cm, 1.5cm, 2cm, or 2.5cm—depending on the total dart intake.

For example, if the current intake is 2cm for the front and 3cm for the back, and there are two darts each, the distribution per dart would be 1cm for the front and 1.5cm for the back. In my previous Tight Skirt project, I assigned 2cm to the back darts because I considered 2cm to be the "golden mean"—the median between the maximum and minimum values that allow the waistline to maintain its 3D form.

The reason I am bringing up this "dart talk" now is to emphasize that the method of applying distribution and the calculation of total intake are different.

This is a theoretical insight based on my personal experience with darts. I recommend you decide whether to adopt this approach based on your own technical judgment and calculations. I formulated this hypothesis because I felt that obsessing over "perfect" dart calculations can sometimes be unnecessary in practical pattern drafting.

Next, I will move on to the fitting (muslin) stage. Since it is difficult for me to upload photos of myself wearing the garment, I will instead discuss any necessary adjustments if issues arise. Thank you!

 

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